Acropolis

The highlight of any Athens trip (insert joke here) is, of course, the Acropolis.  Towering high over the city are the many ruins that encompass the Acropolis, with the Parthenon as the standout.  As you look up from below, it sees like quite a daunting climb.  But as there are sites along the way and the path winds a bit, it’s not as bad as it seems.  Words really can’t describe how impressive this all is.  The only down side is the scaffolding in the Parthenon that has apparently been here for years.  Restoration will go on for a long time, but it still doesn’t detract from seeing the ruins and imagining life here centuries ago.

View from top of sightseeing bus

Sanctuary

Odeum of Herodes Atticus

Odeum of Herodes Atticus

Odeum of Herodes Atticus

Odeum of Herodes Atticus from above

Propyla – entrance to Acropolis – and Temple of Athena Nike

Erechtheion

Erechtheion

Erechtheion

Parthenon

Parthenon

View of Athens and Acropolis Museum

Parthenon

Pedestrian Walk below Acropolis

Acropolis Museum

Temple of Zeus

Right in the middle of Athens are the ruins of the Temple of Zeus and Hadrian’s Arch.  It is quite impressive to see this famous archaeological site with modern Athens all around it.

Hadrian’s Arch

Gateway to Temple

Temple of Zeus

Acropolis in distance

Library of Hadrian

Library of Hadrian

Fanfare for the Common Man

The Olympic Games.  It conjures up heroic images and awe-inspiring competition on a world stage.  As we know, the modern games began in Athens in 1896 and the Panathenaic Stadium was built for it.  It is believed to be on the same grounds as the ancient stadium of the Olympics of long ago.   For three euros, you can tour the stadium with an audio guide – well worth it.  The stands and benches are carved from white marble and the track is an ancient configuration with longer dimension and shorter curves.  The stadium was refurbished for the 2004 Olympics.

Two of these statues adorn the inside of the track.
One head is the young athlete.  The other, the older
athlete reflecting his past.

Athlete’s entrance tunnel

Athlete’s get ready to enter tunnel.  I am not one of them.

Around Athens

The main area, and central to most tourist spots, is Syntagma Square.  This is a large area of the city with lots of shopping, cafés, and government buildings.  It is probably one of the nicest areas of Athens (see?  I can say good things about it).  It is also the starting point of the two competing “hop-on, hop-off” bus tours.  I highly recommend this because not only is it a good way to get to the key destinations, it is a way of avoiding the jam-packed metro.  Also, because they are competing side by side, just say you are going to be in town for three days (if you are) and they will validate your ticket for that long, even though it is only supposed to be for 24 hours.  I definitely got my 18 euros worth from this.

Parlaiment building

Built for 1896 Olympics and now used as exhibition hall

Syntagma Square at night

Tomb of the Unknown Soldier at Parliament building

Parliament guard

Byzantine Church

Orange trees

Syntagma Square

University

Library

Market

Sunday market

 The hotel where I stayed, the Novus, was a stylish boutique hotel.  Everyone was very accommodating and helpful, especially with the ferry fiasco.  They serve a nice buffet breakfast and have a rooftop pool and bar where you can also get a meal.  Here are a couple of shots of the view, the Acropolis and the pool:

Strike Three

I do promise to post some positive things about Athens but this place is nuts.  How the birthplace of democracy turned into a mess of a socialist country is beyond comprehension.  Instead of being grateful that a dozen or so nations (and by association, many others) are bailing this country out of its economic mess, the people get angry because big government can’t keep the gravy train going.  They don’t want to retire later.  They don’t want to give up a thing to get this country back on its feet.  It’s a fact of life that people live longer than when many of these programs were instituted.  That means the government has to take care of more people for more years.  It’s not a bottomless pit.  Therefore, it stands to reason that you can’t expect to have about a third of your life catered to by the government.  So what do they do?  Go on strike.  Doctors plan a two-day strike this week.  The media is having a one day strike.  There is a general strike set for Dec. 15th.  And who else is on strike?  The ferry workers.  The same ferry that I had planned to take to Mykonos for three days of rest and relaxation.

At 4:56PM last night, I received an email from the travel agency informing me that the ferry workers decided to continue a strike from last week (I didn’t even know there was one – who can keep up with all the strikes, not to mention nothing was said when I picked up the ferry tickets) and there would be no way to get to any island for the next two days.  Their offices closed at 5PM.  Noooo!  Stuck for more days in Athens?  Then there was the no-refund policy of the hotel I had booked and calling Expedia.  Then there was getting a refund for the ferry tickets.  Then there was figuring out what to do for three more days because I didn’t want to stay in Athens.

Then there was the announcement late, very late, that the Greek government was ordering the workers back.  But no one knew if they would honor it.  So I set the alarm clock for 4AM to be able to call the Port Authority to see if the ferry would be going (it was set to leave at 7:30AM).  Tried to call.  No answer.   Went to the hotel reception to ask if I was dialing correctly.  They tried.  No answer.  They called the ferry company.  Not in til 6AM.  They said they would call me to let me know.  Went back to sleep (well, tried to anyway).  No call.  Called reception.  Said they would call me back in two minutes.  Reception calls.  Can’t get through to ferry company.  Will try again and call me.  Never called and I fell asleep.

At 9AM I went to the travel agency as they had requested.  They told me that they would refund the ticket for today but weren’t sure they could refund the second one because the strike was not set for that day.  Uh, but how can I use it when I can’t get there?  She made some calls and guess what?  The workers went back and the ferry did go.  Nice.

So they said they could book another one for tomorrow.  But I had paid for a night at the hotel, plus would have to pay for another night at the Athens hotel.

But, turns out there is a later ferry today from another port.  At 5:30PM.  Sold!  So I lose a half day in Mykonos but I gained breakfast at the hotel (which I would have forfeited to leave at 5:30AM), don’t have to rush around and deal with the bags on the crowded Metro, and the ticket was 6 euros cheaper so I got a refund.  All in all, a decent ending for a stressful situation.  As long as I can get the ferry back to the airport on Friday!

Take Athens, Please

Most people know that I love Europe and that it is my dream to live there, even for a year or so. I’ve been to Europe quite a few times and if you asked me to rate the list of cities I’ve been to, I had always put Vienna at the bottom. Vienna is beautiful and has much to see, don’t get me wrong. But when I was there I felt the people were cold and it didn’t seem very inviting.  Vienna, you are no longer at the bottom of the list. Hello Athens. If someone were to give me the opportunity to move to Europe and told me it would be in Athens, I would turn it down.  Vienna, I would go.

Let’s start at the beginning. My flight arrived around 8AM Friday morning and I found the Metro to the city. So far, so good  Well, I needed to make a change in the city to the other Metro line to get to my hotel, the Novus. It was jam packed and I had my bags. Some guy made room although it wasn’t enough, so it was a tight squeeze into an early morning crowd. He obviously had ulterior motives as my wallet slowly creeped up my pocket. I knew what was happening and pushed it back down, much to his chagrin. He didn’t give up as everyone was packed as tight as sardines. But I was just as relentless and one step ahead, making sure the wallet stayed safely in my pocket. I just got off the next stop even though it was two stops away.

Fortunately, I had grabbed a map at the airport and was able to make my way to the hotel. The hotel is nice but in a really blah part of town. Check that. Most of Athens is a blah part of town.  For every beautiful classic Greek-style building, there are ten ugly 60’s Soviet-looking buildings that are blocks of concrete. Much of what is old and charming is in disrepair. And this is after the city was spruced up for the 2004 Olympic Games. I can now see why the Olympic committee was so reluctant to give Athens the games in 1996 for the centennial games. If Pericles awoke from the dead and looked at modern Athens, he would cry.

The people look miserable (living in a miserable economy). The metro is awful because it is always packed. The city is dirty with graffiti everywhere and trash piles heaping. You get people selling junk to you nonstop if you sit outside at a café. And scammers are out and about in every tourist area.

One thing about solo travel is it makes you wiser the more you do it.  I got scammed my first trip to London many years ago.  It was a lesson learned and fortunately was not an expensive one (an advantage of backpacking with no job, i.e., no money). So there is a scam called the “bar scam.” I had read about online that happens to single male travelers. Basically, some older guy, about 60 or so, approaches you and asks if you are looking for something or you need help. When you tell them where you are from, they always have a “sister” or “cousin” there. Blah, blah, friendly talk. You just know something is up. Because then they want to buy you a drink. If you go for the drink, there is probably some pretty woman at the bar and you are pressured into buying a drink, like a glass of wine. This will be the most expensive glass of wine there is (we’re talking about 30-35 euros per glass). But they don’t stop at one. The goal is to run up a huge bill and stick you with it. So far, the tally is at three attempts in two days and twice with the same person. It might have been four times but I didn’t stick around long enough to talk to the guy. I swear the next time I’m telling someone I’m from Iowa. Let’s see how many cousins they have there.

All this aside, there are some wonderful things to see here.  Of course it starts with the archeological areas and the great Greek food.  Now that I’ve gotten this out of my system, I’ll post more about them when I go through all the pictures I’ve taken.  Which I need to dump onto my laptop in case my camera gets stolen.

A Word About Airport Security

With all the commotion going on back in the States over airport security and the full body scans and invasive pat downs, one has to experience airport security at Ben Gurion airport to see how real, professional security operates.

Rather than rude TSA agents with little training, you get a sense that airport security in Tel Aviv are experts and work in a professional manner. There’s a reason why no incidents on flights from Israel have occurred.

You are screened with questions. Then your bags are run through a scanner. If anything seems questionable, next is a manual hand search of your bags. Then possibly having your bags run through the scanner again. You go through several layers of passport screening. And then you are through. With the exception of a hiccup when one of the baggage screening machines went down for a few minutes, the process was orderly and surprisingly quick. No removing shoes. No removing belts. No pat downs. No body scans.

There is no political correctness with Israeli security. If you fit a profile or answer a question in a way they don’t like, you are screened further. What’s going on in the USA is ridiculous because they refuse to adequately profile. So everyone has to be put through an ordeal and possible embarrassment. It’s a dog and pony show because we are reactive. Someone sticks a bomb in their underwear so let’s look at everyone’s underwear. Someone had some explosive liquids so we can’t bring anything over the magical amount of three ounces. Somehow 2.9 ounces is fine  But 3.1? Watch out. Does anyone really feel safer because grandma was groped by a TSA agent?  You feel a lot safer walking to a gate at Ben Gurion airport. That’s for sure.

Getting Caught Up To Date

Made it to Athens.  Long day’s journey.  With a 5:30AM flight and giving enough time for security at Tel Aviv airport, there was no sense paying for a night’s accommodation.  So I gave up a night’s sleep.  It didn’t start well as the morons at Nesher Taxi, the company that operates sheruts, which are shared taxis and much cheaper than taking a single cab, decided that there was no room for me even though I made a reservation two days in advance, in person.  The worst part was that there was no apology, no admission of a screwup.  The idiot just tells me “no room.”  This meant paying about four times as much for a taxi since that was my only option that time of night.  Oh well.  One of the hazards of travel and service outside the USA.

Here’s the journey so far:

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Final Images of Jerusalem

Here are some images around Jerusalem outside the Old City.

Street where my apartment is located

Jerusalem street

Holy Trinity Cathedral
Street music

Ben Yehuda Street – pedestrian mall

Yes Phillies fans (and others), it can be a religious experience

Hebrew graffiti?

And Now A Word From Our Sponsor…

Brought to you by Dead Sea Mud.  Feel younger with baby smooth skin.

Okay, getting ahead of myself.  I took a day trip to see the Masada and go to the Dead Sea.  It started out a bit rocky when the tour company gave me the wrong pickup point.  I had a bad feeling as I stood and waited.  The lady at the desk of the hotel where I was waiting was kind enough to call, especially when she said they don’t ever pick up there.  Sure enough, it was somewhere else.  So I had to make a beeline for another hotel and made it just in time.

We rode through the desert and the Western Territories to below sea level, passing bedouin communities (an oxymoron?), camels, and lots of sand.  The first stop was the Ein Gedi Spa.  No, first stop was a cosmetic company where we had to get the spiel on all the facial products from the Dead Sea area.  Then it was on to Ein Gedi.  A few people had booked the day there so we dropped them off.  We would return later in the day for the rest of us to have a swim in the Dead Sea, later than expected but that piece of the story is yet to come.  But this area is truly an oasis in the desert.  Natural springs allow for palm trees and vegetation – a patch of land surrounded by hot desert.

Ein Gedi

Salt Sculpture – where we got the pitch for Dead Sea products
Next stop was Masada.  This is the fortress that overlooks the Dead Sea where the Jews had their last stand against the Romans after the Second Temple was destroyed.  Originally, King Herod had built a castle here but the Jews fled here and held off the Romans for three years, using the height and construction of the massive fort.  Guess I’ll now have to watch the movie to see how it was portrayed by Hollywood.  Words cannot describe well enough the feeling standing on Masada, seeing the outlines of the Roman camps below and imagining what it must have been like to put up a three-year stand.  Once the Jews knew they couldn’t hold off the Romans any longer and had only one more night before Masada would fall, the decision was to live as slaves or die as free men and women.  They chose the latter, much to the Romans’ surprise when they finally broke through.
Masada

Food storage room

View of desert from Masada

Ritual bath

Water reservoir.  The rocks were catapulted by the Romans, 
which broke through the roof of the reservoir

Various rooms

Watch tower

After lunch, it would be on to the Dead Sea.  With one hitch.  One of the members of the group was staying at the kibbutz nearby.  As we dropped him off, the bus got a flat tire.  Fortunately, a couple of the guys on the tour put on the spare and we were on our way.

Floating in the Dead Sea will go to the top of one of the coolest experiences on the trip.  The sea looks like glass from a distance.  It is so calm and the reflection of the mountains from the Jordan side of the river is like a mirror.  The water is highly concentrated in salt an minerals, so you just float on the water.  It’s a big greasy from all the minerals and it’s a stone beach, which is not the most comfortable.  A couple of people got water in their eyes, which stings something awful, and had to have them flushed out in the showers nearby.  But you walk out a bit until you are about waist high in the water and just sit.  The next thing you know you are floating.  It’s a strange sensation, but a good one.

Now about that mud.  At the bottom of the sea, especially in the shallow areas, is mud.  You spread this all over your body and keep it on for awhile.  When you wash it off, you’ve never felt your skin so smooth as this.  Oh, there are no pictures of me doing this.  On purpose.  But I did do it.  Honestly.

Dead Sea

Kibbutz

Uh Oh!

The spare.  Which was a little flat itself but held up.

Spa and beach

Bathing in the Dead Sea

Late Afternoon at the Dead Sea

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