Europe, You’ve Won Me Back

As I’ve mentioned, and as most people who know me know, I love Europe. Given the opportunity, I would move here in a heartbeat (not Athens). After dealing with the disappointment of Athens and the strikes in Greece and Spain, I started to waver on Europe. I thought, “Do I really want to move here and deal with this crap?” Standing in the long, long line at the Aegean Air ticket counter after the first flight to Barcelona was cancelled, I thought “Screw Spain. Maybe I’ll just book a flight back to the U.S.” Then I thought, “No, this is a challenge. A challenge on a trip that has been mostly wonderful. It’s another experience and I can deal with this. There are worse things than another day in Athens. Such as two more days in Athens.”

On a side note, I do have to say that Aegean Air was fantastic in all this. Okay, not the most friendly people–if one of the flight attendants had cracked a smile, I’d have been scared for them. But while we were sitting in the plane, they served drinks. When we sat back at the gate, they issued vouchers for coffee, soft drink and sandwich at one of the food places in the airport. And when the flight was cancelled, they put those of us without accommodations up at the Holiday Inn (where if the people at the reception desk had cracked a smile, I’d have been scared for them). I don’t believe for a second we would have gotten such good treatment from a US domestic airline. In fact, they’d probably have charged us for the difference of the cost of the flight the next day because it was a Sunday and a heavier travel day.

Then I arrived in Barcelona. I had been wanting to come here for a long time but it never worked out where I had the time on other trips. I’ll post lots more later, but this city is beautiful. The architecture is exquisite and just walking around the city, I realized my faith in Europe and every reason I would want to live here is still very much alive.

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And Not A Plate Broken

One of the questions I get a lot from everyone is about the food on the trip. Many of the places are not known for a specific cuisine. There’s Australian beef (and yes, the shrimp on the barbie). Hong Kong would be Chinese, but you really think of the mainland for that. Israel has middle eastern food like falafel, but that’s not specific to the country. The only culinary place with a specific food type would be Thailand. And Thai green curry will forever be a favorite of mine now. So while there have been good meals, there hasn’t been much country-specific culinary experience. Until Greece. I forget how much I love Greek food. You can’t help but trip over a Mexican restaurant every ten feet in LA. But unfortunately, there is not an abundance of Greek restaurants. So I sought out specifically some traditional Greek cuisine from souvlaki to taramosolata to Greek lamb chops. Let’s just say I got some strange looks as I took photos of some of the dishes (but some places were too dark).  Enjoy!

Greek breakfast at the Rocabella

Local beer

Lamb chops

Amstel Not Light – never saw it before

Greek salad

Custard pastry

Greeks love their frappés

Grilled squid
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The Greek Isles

Before closing the book on Greece, two more posts. The first is the trip to Mykonos. For all that I didn’t like Athens, I do have to say it was worth it to get to the Greek Isles. I chose Mykonos because I hadn’t really researched many of the islands. And, being that it was off-season and much of the shops and restaurants closed on most of them, I thought I would choose one that was popular and one that I could do it justice in two plus days as opposed to a place like Crete, which needs a longer stay. So Mykonos it was. Once I finally got there, it was everything that all the pictures and films make it out to be. Stark white buildings with blue, green, red shutters and doors. Crystal blue Aegean Sea. Clean, crisp air. Actually, for a place that pretty much closes up for the winter, it was about 70 degrees the entire time. Hardly winter weather. There were some restaurants and a few shops open. But as far as the crazy nightlife and partying that goes on in the summer, there was none of that. And after nearly two months of travel, that was fine by me.

I stayed at the Rocabella Art Hotel and the accommodations could not have been better. During the winter they only book seven of the rooms so the attention to detail is impeccable. They truly go above and beyond. Breakfast is served in your room. I was upgraded to a room with a patio and jacuzzi that had a view of the ocean, although I could never get the jacuzzi to work right. Spyro, who basically ran the place even drove me to a nearby restaurant he recommended and picked me back up.  And refused a tip! Basically anything you wanted, they would do for you. I don’t know what it is like in the craziness of the summer. But anything close to this kind of service is well worth the extra expense. Here are some pictures to give you a taste.

Ferry

Port of Rafina (since I missed the ferry in the morning at the main port of Piraeus)

Port of Rafina

On the ferry – upper outside deck

Rafina port

Leaving the port

Rocabella room

View from private patio

The hotel was a bit away from the main town in Mykonos.  The only way to town this time of year was by taxi but the first time I wanted to walk it to take some pictures along the coast.

Mykonos New Port

Mykonos Town

There are so many of these little chapels all over the island.  They were originally built by homeowners as private chapels next to their houses.

How the other half lives.  In their villas.

Another villa.

Mykonos Town from above.

The windmills of Mykonos

Sunset on the Aegean on the way back to Athens
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An Open Letter to Spanish Air Controllers

Dear Spanish Air Controllers,

First, thanks for the extra day in Athens.  I was so looking forward to it.  Really.  A few days ago it was the Greek ferry workers and now it’s you.  Just great.

A few things you should consider. Your strike is illegal. I have two words for you. Ronald Reagan. Remember what he did back in the 80s when the air traffic controllers struck illegally? Maybe you were too young and were partying in Ibiza. Let me jog your memory. They are no longer air traffic controllers.

But the bigger issue is, the Spain unemployment rate? It’s like freaking 20 percent. 20 percent! One-fifth of your countrymen are trying to find work. Your beef? Your allotted working hours for the year have been met and you’re a little pissy the government wants to cut back on overtime so you don’t pull in nearly a half mil a year, something like 15 times the average salary in Spain. Despite the fact the government is trying to work out a solution, ONE FIFTH of your fellow countrymen would love to have your dilemma. Stop being crybabies and stomping your collective socialist feet! You are hurting your country because people can’t come and go. Tourism dollars are lost. Restaurants are hurt. Retail is hurt. All at the busiest time of the year. Remember that when you follow Greece and probably Ireland into a bailout.

Now suck it up and let me the hell out of Athens!

Yours truly,
Michael

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An Open Letter to Zeus

Dear Zeus,

I can call you Zeus, right? The Big Z? I’ve been to your temple so I feel we are close. I’m assuming my derogatory statements about Athens has awakened your ire. I know I’ve said the city is dirty. That’s it’s overrun with graffiti. That garbage bags are piled high around dumpsters that don’t seem to ever be emptied. I know I’ve said I’ve found the people to be unfriendly and unhelpful. That Greek men chain smoke and wear nothing but sweatpants. And that Greek women are miserable because they only have chain-smoking, sweatpants-wearing men from which to choose for a mate.

I guess you took offense. And I appreciate it, I really do. But come on, look at this place. This is not the Athens of your day. The center of democracy, drama, philosophy. You wouldn’t have stood for anyone tagging the Parthenon. You’d have found a way to allow people to throw toilet paper in the actual toilets instead of garbage cans. People with their hands out to the government?  You’d have struck those hands with lightening. Or maybe had Hades do it. But from lonely tourist to Greek God, I apologize. Now let me the hell out of here.

Best,
Michael

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From the “Timing Sucks” Department…

Fresh off the Athens Ferry workers strike and that fiasco, now it’s Spain’s turn as the air traffic controllers staged a mass sickout last night, canceling flights to and from Spain. Now Spain’s military has taken over the reigns, but the flight from Athens to Madrid has been canceled.  So far, my flight to Barcelona seems to be on. On my way to the airport in a half hour. Wish me luck.

UPDATE:  Sitting at the gate. Boarding in 20 minutes. Dodged another one!

UPDATE #2:  Spoke too soon.  After sitting on the plane for an hour waiting for clearance due to the strike, they sent us back to the gate.  Say they will update us when they have more info.  I hope I make it out of here today.

UPDATE #3:  Well, the Holiday Inn near the Athens airport is kinda nice, I guess.  Hope today is the last I see of it.  *%$#! you, Spanish air controllers.

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Glyfada

After two days in Athens, I decided to take the tram to one of the coastal areas, Glyfada.  The trams are a relief from the metro as they are not crowded and take a scenic route along the coast.  The trams were re-instituted for the 2004 Olympics after the tram system had been abolished about 50 years ago.  The best thing about Athens transportation is that it is cheap.  A ticket is one euro and is good for any transportation (except the airport) within a 90 minute period.  You can take a bus or metro to the tram at Syntagma Square, then hop on the tram and take the approximately one hour ride along the coast all for one euro.  Being off season, it was quiet.  But it was a welcome relief, not having my hand on my wallet at all times.

Marks & Spencer and Starbucks – I think I know 
some people who would die over this

Tram

Hope the beaches are nicer (and cleaner) in the summer

Shopping
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