Sagrada Familia and Another 80 Years Or So

Sagrada Familia is probably Gaudi’s most famous work, a basilica that was started in 1882 and has never been completed. They say it will take another 80 years to complete it. Damn unions! However, the inside was recently completed and was just dedicated a few weeks ago by Pope Benedict XVI. For that reason, and the fact that two religious holidays fell on Monday and Wednesday here, the line to get in (and pay 12 euros for the privilege) went around the block. I didn’t realize that this was a special occasion and assumed this was the case all the time to get in. Which made me think with that kind of money coming in, it shouldn’t really take longer than a 100 years in total to complete, but that’s just me.

I was not about to wait two hours to get in, but when I was told that it was an unusually large queue, I gave it another shot a couple days later.  Sure enough, I was in in about two minutes.

Everyone is quick to point out that this is not a cathedral, but a basilica, and that Barcelona has only one cathedral. Which, being of different faith, made me run to WikiAnswers to see what the difference is. Completed or not, it is an impressive piece of work.

Reflection of stained glass windows in organ pipes.

Nativity scenes

Model workshop

Very Gaudi

As previously mentioned, the influence of architect Antoni Gaudi is all throughout Barcelona, from houses built for the wealthy, to the design of Park Güell to the famous Sagrada Familia, the basilica that was started to be built in 1882 and is still under construction.  Gaudi uses the influences of nature, color, and mosaics to build truly unique structures.  The sad thing about Gaudi is that such a large figure had such a, pardon the pun, pedestrian death as he was hit by a tram on the street.  One of his most famous building, commissioned by a wealthy couple, is known as La Pedrera, a nickname meaning “The Quarry” in Catalan because it took so freaking long to build, the neighbors hated it.  Kinda like a mini version of the Big Dig.  Technically, it is known as Casa Mil à.  You can tour some of the apartments and go on the roof.  Note, there are a lot of steps going up but you don’t realize it until once you’ve passed the elevator and regret not taking it.

View from the roof

View of Sagrada Familia from the roof
Not far from here is another famous building, Casa Battló.  Unfortunately, I didn’t have time to go in.  But it’s pretty expensive and not as much to see as La Pedrera.

Architecture Porn

Without a doubt, Barcelona must be on any list of the top architectural cities in the world.  I mean, wherever you turn is another magnificent building.  There are many styles here, from Gothic to Neoclassical to Art Nouveau to Modernism.  One of the most important architects is Antoni Gaudi, whose designs dominate much of the city.  More on his work in a separate post.  But here are some samples of the great architecture here.

Hospital de Sant Pau

Casa de Puxes

Torre Agbar

Palau de la Musica

Palau de la Musica

Europe, You’ve Won Me Back

As I’ve mentioned, and as most people who know me know, I love Europe. Given the opportunity, I would move here in a heartbeat (not Athens). After dealing with the disappointment of Athens and the strikes in Greece and Spain, I started to waver on Europe. I thought, “Do I really want to move here and deal with this crap?” Standing in the long, long line at the Aegean Air ticket counter after the first flight to Barcelona was cancelled, I thought “Screw Spain. Maybe I’ll just book a flight back to the U.S.” Then I thought, “No, this is a challenge. A challenge on a trip that has been mostly wonderful. It’s another experience and I can deal with this. There are worse things than another day in Athens. Such as two more days in Athens.”

On a side note, I do have to say that Aegean Air was fantastic in all this. Okay, not the most friendly people–if one of the flight attendants had cracked a smile, I’d have been scared for them. But while we were sitting in the plane, they served drinks. When we sat back at the gate, they issued vouchers for coffee, soft drink and sandwich at one of the food places in the airport. And when the flight was cancelled, they put those of us without accommodations up at the Holiday Inn (where if the people at the reception desk had cracked a smile, I’d have been scared for them). I don’t believe for a second we would have gotten such good treatment from a US domestic airline. In fact, they’d probably have charged us for the difference of the cost of the flight the next day because it was a Sunday and a heavier travel day.

Then I arrived in Barcelona. I had been wanting to come here for a long time but it never worked out where I had the time on other trips. I’ll post lots more later, but this city is beautiful. The architecture is exquisite and just walking around the city, I realized my faith in Europe and every reason I would want to live here is still very much alive.

And Not A Plate Broken

One of the questions I get a lot from everyone is about the food on the trip. Many of the places are not known for a specific cuisine. There’s Australian beef (and yes, the shrimp on the barbie). Hong Kong would be Chinese, but you really think of the mainland for that. Israel has middle eastern food like falafel, but that’s not specific to the country. The only culinary place with a specific food type would be Thailand. And Thai green curry will forever be a favorite of mine now. So while there have been good meals, there hasn’t been much country-specific culinary experience. Until Greece. I forget how much I love Greek food. You can’t help but trip over a Mexican restaurant every ten feet in LA. But unfortunately, there is not an abundance of Greek restaurants. So I sought out specifically some traditional Greek cuisine from souvlaki to taramosolata to Greek lamb chops. Let’s just say I got some strange looks as I took photos of some of the dishes (but some places were too dark).  Enjoy!

Greek breakfast at the Rocabella

Local beer

Lamb chops

Amstel Not Light – never saw it before

Greek salad

Custard pastry

Greeks love their frappés

Grilled squid

The Greek Isles

Before closing the book on Greece, two more posts. The first is the trip to Mykonos. For all that I didn’t like Athens, I do have to say it was worth it to get to the Greek Isles. I chose Mykonos because I hadn’t really researched many of the islands. And, being that it was off-season and much of the shops and restaurants closed on most of them, I thought I would choose one that was popular and one that I could do it justice in two plus days as opposed to a place like Crete, which needs a longer stay. So Mykonos it was. Once I finally got there, it was everything that all the pictures and films make it out to be. Stark white buildings with blue, green, red shutters and doors. Crystal blue Aegean Sea. Clean, crisp air. Actually, for a place that pretty much closes up for the winter, it was about 70 degrees the entire time. Hardly winter weather. There were some restaurants and a few shops open. But as far as the crazy nightlife and partying that goes on in the summer, there was none of that. And after nearly two months of travel, that was fine by me.

I stayed at the Rocabella Art Hotel and the accommodations could not have been better. During the winter they only book seven of the rooms so the attention to detail is impeccable. They truly go above and beyond. Breakfast is served in your room. I was upgraded to a room with a patio and jacuzzi that had a view of the ocean, although I could never get the jacuzzi to work right. Spyro, who basically ran the place even drove me to a nearby restaurant he recommended and picked me back up.  And refused a tip! Basically anything you wanted, they would do for you. I don’t know what it is like in the craziness of the summer. But anything close to this kind of service is well worth the extra expense. Here are some pictures to give you a taste.

Ferry

Port of Rafina (since I missed the ferry in the morning at the main port of Piraeus)

Port of Rafina

On the ferry – upper outside deck

Rafina port

Leaving the port

Rocabella room

View from private patio

The hotel was a bit away from the main town in Mykonos.  The only way to town this time of year was by taxi but the first time I wanted to walk it to take some pictures along the coast.

Mykonos New Port

Mykonos Town

There are so many of these little chapels all over the island.  They were originally built by homeowners as private chapels next to their houses.

How the other half lives.  In their villas.

Another villa.

Mykonos Town from above.

The windmills of Mykonos

Sunset on the Aegean on the way back to Athens

An Open Letter to Spanish Air Controllers

Dear Spanish Air Controllers,

First, thanks for the extra day in Athens.  I was so looking forward to it.  Really.  A few days ago it was the Greek ferry workers and now it’s you.  Just great.

A few things you should consider. Your strike is illegal. I have two words for you. Ronald Reagan. Remember what he did back in the 80s when the air traffic controllers struck illegally? Maybe you were too young and were partying in Ibiza. Let me jog your memory. They are no longer air traffic controllers.

But the bigger issue is, the Spain unemployment rate? It’s like freaking 20 percent. 20 percent! One-fifth of your countrymen are trying to find work. Your beef? Your allotted working hours for the year have been met and you’re a little pissy the government wants to cut back on overtime so you don’t pull in nearly a half mil a year, something like 15 times the average salary in Spain. Despite the fact the government is trying to work out a solution, ONE FIFTH of your fellow countrymen would love to have your dilemma. Stop being crybabies and stomping your collective socialist feet! You are hurting your country because people can’t come and go. Tourism dollars are lost. Restaurants are hurt. Retail is hurt. All at the busiest time of the year. Remember that when you follow Greece and probably Ireland into a bailout.

Now suck it up and let me the hell out of Athens!

Yours truly,
Michael

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