Category: Travel

Jaffa

Without a doubt if there is one place not to be missed in Tel Aviv is the ancient port of Jaffa which dates back some 4000 years.  Ancient buildings are mixed in with retail and cafés, outdoor markets and a well-known flea market.  There are galleries along winding stone walkways that seem to go on and on despite it being a very small area geographically.  I walked along the Mediterranean (so I was in the water after all!) and spent most of the day in the area.

Jaffa in the distance

Jaffa Clock Tower

Had lunch here

If you ever went to a museum and wondered where you could purchase antiquities, 
here’s the place.  They had items for purchase (certified by the Israeli government) 
dating back to hundreds of years BC.

View of Tel Aviv from Jaffa

Flea Market

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The River Jordan

Next stop was Tabgha, the Byzantine monastery recently built when the site of the church of the Multiplication of the Loaves and Fishes was discovered, having been destroyed by the Persians in 614.  This original symbol of the Loaves and Fishes is still in the mosaic on the floor of the church.

Then it was on to the final stop, the Yardenit on the Jordan river, where Jesus was baptized.  Pilgrims come the world over to be baptized in the river.  The river is beautiful, crisp and clear, with a bluish tint to the water.  Then it was back through the Jordan Valley along the West Bank where you could see small Jordan villages in the distance.

widestass.com

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Where Jesus Walked

The next stop was Capharnaum, located in Galilee, and the remains of the old synagogue from the 4th century.  It was believed to have been built on top of the site of the synagogue where Jesus taught.  Next to it is another modern church, again built on another ancient site, the house of Saint Peter.  This is all set with the Sea of Galilee as a backdrop.  If you want to get a sense of the vulnerability of Israel to Syria prior to the six day war, you can get it here by seeing how close the Golan Heights (and formerly Syria) is before the capture of the territory.

Ancient Synagogue – menorah carved into stone pillar

Excavated Village in time of Jesus

Sea of Galilee

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Jesus of Nazareth

I’ll admit my knowledge of biblical history is not as good as it should be, so what better way to brush up than to go to the source.  So I booked a day trip to Nazareth, Capharnaum, Galilee, and the Jordan River.  The first stop was Nazareth, which is more of a small city than the image the name conjures up when picturing Nazareth in Jesus’ time.

Nazareth

City View

Hmm…I’ll let the words speak for themselves
Hollywood’s influence is everywhere
The largest church in the Middle East, the Church (or Basilica) of the Annunciation, is here.  It is a modern church built over the site where it was announced that the Virgin Mary would give birth to Jesus.

Surrounding the church are mosaics from countries around the world 
as their interpretation of the Madonna and child

Ancient site beneath church

Section of Nazareth from the time of Jesus
The Church of Saint Joseph is next to the Basilica which was built over the original house of Saint Joseph.  

Ritual Bath found under the new church

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Decisions, Decisions

So the Greece portion of the trip is fast approaching and I still haven’t decided the itinerary.  The plan was Athens for three or four days and one of the islands for a few days.  I’ve now been reading how the islands pretty much shut down by mid-November, so that probably leaves the smaller ones out.  Crete requires another round trip flight and I just don’t think I can add yet another airport experience to the trip.  Santorini and Mykonos are probably the two most popular so I figure there has to be some activity going on there, even if not much.  But Santorini is really more of a romantic getaway.  That leaves Mykonos.  Anyone familiar with the Greek Isles?  If so, good choice?  I really don’t mind a few quiet days to chill and get some writing done.  I just don’t want everything boarded up.

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Promenading Tel Aviv

Tel Aviv is not the most beautiful city I’ve ever been to–far from it.  But what makes it so fascinating is the vibrancy and yet laid-back feeling that permeates the city.  It’s a young city – only 100 years old – so you find a lot of new construction but also a lot of run-down buildings.  While everyone speaks English, there is surprisingly little signage in English, street signage aside.  Go into most cafés with board menus and it’s almost all Hebrew.  You can ask and find out in English, but a little advance info on what they are serving would help.  That said, Tel Aviv is a great walking city with great beaches:

Having recovered from one bout of sunburn in the Cook Islands, I decided to forgo beach time, but have walked the promenade from one end (Tel Aviv port) to the other (Jaffa).  Yes, you can walk the length of the city along the beach promenade.  Along the way you will find beach restaurants, a large park, and lots of people.  People sitting and kibitzing, biking, walking, and jogging.  While cities like Sydney, you see a lot of young people, here there is a mix of the young and the old, giving Tel Aviv so much character.

widestass.com

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Security

Wow, I knew that security would be tight here but it still takes you aback when you see so much of it.  To people here, it’s obviously a way of life.  But I was stopped by security right after getting off the plane and asked a bunch of questions, then grilled by the passport control agent.  But when I entered the prime shopping mall, the Dizenghoff Center, each entrance had a guard going through people’s bags and waving a wand on everyone.  He asked me if I had a weapon on me.  It’s amazing the freedoms we take for granted in the USA and so easy to criticize others who live with uncertainty every day.

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Journey to the Minute

Arrived in Tel Aviv.  Here’s the updated map:

Boy, am I glad I spent the extra money for business class.  Hong Kong to Bangkok to Amman to Tel Aviv.  Lots of time at the airports.  Lots of time taking advantage of the biz class lounges!
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