An Open Letter to Zeus

Dear Zeus,

I can call you Zeus, right? The Big Z? I’ve been to your temple so I feel we are close. I’m assuming my derogatory statements about Athens has awakened your ire. I know I’ve said the city is dirty. That’s it’s overrun with graffiti. That garbage bags are piled high around dumpsters that don’t seem to ever be emptied. I know I’ve said I’ve found the people to be unfriendly and unhelpful. That Greek men chain smoke and wear nothing but sweatpants. And that Greek women are miserable because they only have chain-smoking, sweatpants-wearing men from which to choose for a mate.

I guess you took offense. And I appreciate it, I really do. But come on, look at this place. This is not the Athens of your day. The center of democracy, drama, philosophy. You wouldn’t have stood for anyone tagging the Parthenon. You’d have found a way to allow people to throw toilet paper in the actual toilets instead of garbage cans. People with their hands out to the government?  You’d have struck those hands with lightening. Or maybe had Hades do it. But from lonely tourist to Greek God, I apologize. Now let me the hell out of here.

Best,
Michael

From the “Timing Sucks” Department…

Fresh off the Athens Ferry workers strike and that fiasco, now it’s Spain’s turn as the air traffic controllers staged a mass sickout last night, canceling flights to and from Spain. Now Spain’s military has taken over the reigns, but the flight from Athens to Madrid has been canceled.  So far, my flight to Barcelona seems to be on. On my way to the airport in a half hour. Wish me luck.

UPDATE:  Sitting at the gate. Boarding in 20 minutes. Dodged another one!

UPDATE #2:  Spoke too soon.  After sitting on the plane for an hour waiting for clearance due to the strike, they sent us back to the gate.  Say they will update us when they have more info.  I hope I make it out of here today.

UPDATE #3:  Well, the Holiday Inn near the Athens airport is kinda nice, I guess.  Hope today is the last I see of it.  *%$#! you, Spanish air controllers.

Glyfada

After two days in Athens, I decided to take the tram to one of the coastal areas, Glyfada.  The trams are a relief from the metro as they are not crowded and take a scenic route along the coast.  The trams were re-instituted for the 2004 Olympics after the tram system had been abolished about 50 years ago.  The best thing about Athens transportation is that it is cheap.  A ticket is one euro and is good for any transportation (except the airport) within a 90 minute period.  You can take a bus or metro to the tram at Syntagma Square, then hop on the tram and take the approximately one hour ride along the coast all for one euro.  Being off season, it was quiet.  But it was a welcome relief, not having my hand on my wallet at all times.

Marks & Spencer and Starbucks – I think I know 
some people who would die over this

Tram

Hope the beaches are nicer (and cleaner) in the summer

Shopping

Acropolis

The highlight of any Athens trip (insert joke here) is, of course, the Acropolis.  Towering high over the city are the many ruins that encompass the Acropolis, with the Parthenon as the standout.  As you look up from below, it sees like quite a daunting climb.  But as there are sites along the way and the path winds a bit, it’s not as bad as it seems.  Words really can’t describe how impressive this all is.  The only down side is the scaffolding in the Parthenon that has apparently been here for years.  Restoration will go on for a long time, but it still doesn’t detract from seeing the ruins and imagining life here centuries ago.

View from top of sightseeing bus

Sanctuary

Odeum of Herodes Atticus

Odeum of Herodes Atticus

Odeum of Herodes Atticus

Odeum of Herodes Atticus from above

Propyla – entrance to Acropolis – and Temple of Athena Nike

Erechtheion

Erechtheion

Erechtheion

Parthenon

Parthenon

View of Athens and Acropolis Museum

Parthenon

Pedestrian Walk below Acropolis

Acropolis Museum

Temple of Zeus

Right in the middle of Athens are the ruins of the Temple of Zeus and Hadrian’s Arch.  It is quite impressive to see this famous archaeological site with modern Athens all around it.

Hadrian’s Arch

Gateway to Temple

Temple of Zeus

Acropolis in distance

Library of Hadrian

Library of Hadrian

Fanfare for the Common Man

The Olympic Games.  It conjures up heroic images and awe-inspiring competition on a world stage.  As we know, the modern games began in Athens in 1896 and the Panathenaic Stadium was built for it.  It is believed to be on the same grounds as the ancient stadium of the Olympics of long ago.   For three euros, you can tour the stadium with an audio guide – well worth it.  The stands and benches are carved from white marble and the track is an ancient configuration with longer dimension and shorter curves.  The stadium was refurbished for the 2004 Olympics.

Two of these statues adorn the inside of the track.
One head is the young athlete.  The other, the older
athlete reflecting his past.

Athlete’s entrance tunnel

Athlete’s get ready to enter tunnel.  I am not one of them.

Around Athens

The main area, and central to most tourist spots, is Syntagma Square.  This is a large area of the city with lots of shopping, cafés, and government buildings.  It is probably one of the nicest areas of Athens (see?  I can say good things about it).  It is also the starting point of the two competing “hop-on, hop-off” bus tours.  I highly recommend this because not only is it a good way to get to the key destinations, it is a way of avoiding the jam-packed metro.  Also, because they are competing side by side, just say you are going to be in town for three days (if you are) and they will validate your ticket for that long, even though it is only supposed to be for 24 hours.  I definitely got my 18 euros worth from this.

Parlaiment building

Built for 1896 Olympics and now used as exhibition hall

Syntagma Square at night

Tomb of the Unknown Soldier at Parliament building

Parliament guard

Byzantine Church

Orange trees

Syntagma Square

University

Library

Market

Sunday market

 The hotel where I stayed, the Novus, was a stylish boutique hotel.  Everyone was very accommodating and helpful, especially with the ferry fiasco.  They serve a nice buffet breakfast and have a rooftop pool and bar where you can also get a meal.  Here are a couple of shots of the view, the Acropolis and the pool:

Strike Three

I do promise to post some positive things about Athens but this place is nuts.  How the birthplace of democracy turned into a mess of a socialist country is beyond comprehension.  Instead of being grateful that a dozen or so nations (and by association, many others) are bailing this country out of its economic mess, the people get angry because big government can’t keep the gravy train going.  They don’t want to retire later.  They don’t want to give up a thing to get this country back on its feet.  It’s a fact of life that people live longer than when many of these programs were instituted.  That means the government has to take care of more people for more years.  It’s not a bottomless pit.  Therefore, it stands to reason that you can’t expect to have about a third of your life catered to by the government.  So what do they do?  Go on strike.  Doctors plan a two-day strike this week.  The media is having a one day strike.  There is a general strike set for Dec. 15th.  And who else is on strike?  The ferry workers.  The same ferry that I had planned to take to Mykonos for three days of rest and relaxation.

At 4:56PM last night, I received an email from the travel agency informing me that the ferry workers decided to continue a strike from last week (I didn’t even know there was one – who can keep up with all the strikes, not to mention nothing was said when I picked up the ferry tickets) and there would be no way to get to any island for the next two days.  Their offices closed at 5PM.  Noooo!  Stuck for more days in Athens?  Then there was the no-refund policy of the hotel I had booked and calling Expedia.  Then there was getting a refund for the ferry tickets.  Then there was figuring out what to do for three more days because I didn’t want to stay in Athens.

Then there was the announcement late, very late, that the Greek government was ordering the workers back.  But no one knew if they would honor it.  So I set the alarm clock for 4AM to be able to call the Port Authority to see if the ferry would be going (it was set to leave at 7:30AM).  Tried to call.  No answer.   Went to the hotel reception to ask if I was dialing correctly.  They tried.  No answer.  They called the ferry company.  Not in til 6AM.  They said they would call me to let me know.  Went back to sleep (well, tried to anyway).  No call.  Called reception.  Said they would call me back in two minutes.  Reception calls.  Can’t get through to ferry company.  Will try again and call me.  Never called and I fell asleep.

At 9AM I went to the travel agency as they had requested.  They told me that they would refund the ticket for today but weren’t sure they could refund the second one because the strike was not set for that day.  Uh, but how can I use it when I can’t get there?  She made some calls and guess what?  The workers went back and the ferry did go.  Nice.

So they said they could book another one for tomorrow.  But I had paid for a night at the hotel, plus would have to pay for another night at the Athens hotel.

But, turns out there is a later ferry today from another port.  At 5:30PM.  Sold!  So I lose a half day in Mykonos but I gained breakfast at the hotel (which I would have forfeited to leave at 5:30AM), don’t have to rush around and deal with the bags on the crowded Metro, and the ticket was 6 euros cheaper so I got a refund.  All in all, a decent ending for a stressful situation.  As long as I can get the ferry back to the airport on Friday!

Take Athens, Please

Most people know that I love Europe and that it is my dream to live there, even for a year or so. I’ve been to Europe quite a few times and if you asked me to rate the list of cities I’ve been to, I had always put Vienna at the bottom. Vienna is beautiful and has much to see, don’t get me wrong. But when I was there I felt the people were cold and it didn’t seem very inviting.  Vienna, you are no longer at the bottom of the list. Hello Athens. If someone were to give me the opportunity to move to Europe and told me it would be in Athens, I would turn it down.  Vienna, I would go.

Let’s start at the beginning. My flight arrived around 8AM Friday morning and I found the Metro to the city. So far, so good  Well, I needed to make a change in the city to the other Metro line to get to my hotel, the Novus. It was jam packed and I had my bags. Some guy made room although it wasn’t enough, so it was a tight squeeze into an early morning crowd. He obviously had ulterior motives as my wallet slowly creeped up my pocket. I knew what was happening and pushed it back down, much to his chagrin. He didn’t give up as everyone was packed as tight as sardines. But I was just as relentless and one step ahead, making sure the wallet stayed safely in my pocket. I just got off the next stop even though it was two stops away.

Fortunately, I had grabbed a map at the airport and was able to make my way to the hotel. The hotel is nice but in a really blah part of town. Check that. Most of Athens is a blah part of town.  For every beautiful classic Greek-style building, there are ten ugly 60’s Soviet-looking buildings that are blocks of concrete. Much of what is old and charming is in disrepair. And this is after the city was spruced up for the 2004 Olympic Games. I can now see why the Olympic committee was so reluctant to give Athens the games in 1996 for the centennial games. If Pericles awoke from the dead and looked at modern Athens, he would cry.

The people look miserable (living in a miserable economy). The metro is awful because it is always packed. The city is dirty with graffiti everywhere and trash piles heaping. You get people selling junk to you nonstop if you sit outside at a café. And scammers are out and about in every tourist area.

One thing about solo travel is it makes you wiser the more you do it.  I got scammed my first trip to London many years ago.  It was a lesson learned and fortunately was not an expensive one (an advantage of backpacking with no job, i.e., no money). So there is a scam called the “bar scam.” I had read about online that happens to single male travelers. Basically, some older guy, about 60 or so, approaches you and asks if you are looking for something or you need help. When you tell them where you are from, they always have a “sister” or “cousin” there. Blah, blah, friendly talk. You just know something is up. Because then they want to buy you a drink. If you go for the drink, there is probably some pretty woman at the bar and you are pressured into buying a drink, like a glass of wine. This will be the most expensive glass of wine there is (we’re talking about 30-35 euros per glass). But they don’t stop at one. The goal is to run up a huge bill and stick you with it. So far, the tally is at three attempts in two days and twice with the same person. It might have been four times but I didn’t stick around long enough to talk to the guy. I swear the next time I’m telling someone I’m from Iowa. Let’s see how many cousins they have there.

All this aside, there are some wonderful things to see here.  Of course it starts with the archeological areas and the great Greek food.  Now that I’ve gotten this out of my system, I’ll post more about them when I go through all the pictures I’ve taken.  Which I need to dump onto my laptop in case my camera gets stolen.

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